Friday, December 7, 2012
Posting photos from my phone isn't going to work...
They're all blurry and odd, so i'll have to download them on the computer as I thought. Alas, I tried. I'll go back through and edit out the ones I posted from the app last night and switch them out with the higher quality versions.
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Last day in Cambodia...
So, my last thoughts on Cambodia. I spent all day thinking, "noooo, I am so sad to leave this place!"
While I more or less got the tourist blow through, I had an incredible time here. The life style is very different, but it is the differences that make it enjoyable.
The temples were everything I hoped and more, and thanks to Sothik, I felt like I got a lot out of my time here. Not just with the temples, but having the chance to eat at local markets along the way, and try the food the way they do. I know for certain that is not something that would have happened had it just been left to me (hello, I ordered a pancake for my breakfast the first day) and while it may seem silly, I look at Sothik as a friend.
;Sothik and I exchanged contact information, and i hope that I can keep in touch with him. I also hope that he and his family do well in the future.
Maybe if he ever comes to the States, I can show him around some, as a friend.
It felt odd giving the two of them the envelopes of money, mostly because it felt odd to have to say goodbye in that sort of fashion, but I was more than happy to pay them for their services. I'd spent all three days saying 'no' to the people selling tourist goods so that I could give both Mr. Driver and Sothik a decent tip. It wasn't nearly as much as I would have liked, but I gave what I could.
If you are in Cambodia in the Siem Reap area, and find that you need a tour guide, please contact Sothik.
He was amazing and I promise you you will not be sorry.
Next time, I believe I will do some volunteering here in Cambodia, teaching at the orphanages or the schools. And trust me, there will be a next time. There is simply no way I cannot come back.
In fact, if I did not already have commitments in Thailand, I would probably try to stay longer.
Truly, it breaks my heart to leave.
While I more or less got the tourist blow through, I had an incredible time here. The life style is very different, but it is the differences that make it enjoyable.
The temples were everything I hoped and more, and thanks to Sothik, I felt like I got a lot out of my time here. Not just with the temples, but having the chance to eat at local markets along the way, and try the food the way they do. I know for certain that is not something that would have happened had it just been left to me (hello, I ordered a pancake for my breakfast the first day) and while it may seem silly, I look at Sothik as a friend.
;Sothik and I exchanged contact information, and i hope that I can keep in touch with him. I also hope that he and his family do well in the future.
Maybe if he ever comes to the States, I can show him around some, as a friend.
It felt odd giving the two of them the envelopes of money, mostly because it felt odd to have to say goodbye in that sort of fashion, but I was more than happy to pay them for their services. I'd spent all three days saying 'no' to the people selling tourist goods so that I could give both Mr. Driver and Sothik a decent tip. It wasn't nearly as much as I would have liked, but I gave what I could.
If you are in Cambodia in the Siem Reap area, and find that you need a tour guide, please contact Sothik.
He was amazing and I promise you you will not be sorry.
Next time, I believe I will do some volunteering here in Cambodia, teaching at the orphanages or the schools. And trust me, there will be a next time. There is simply no way I cannot come back.
In fact, if I did not already have commitments in Thailand, I would probably try to stay longer.
Truly, it breaks my heart to leave.
Golden Temple Villa : Cambodia
So while here in Cambodia, I have been staying at the Golden Temple Villa. The hostel is off a side street close to the day market, and within reasonable distance of the night market as well. Once inside the entry way, you are greeted with lots of plant life and statues, with resting areas to your right, and the restaurant to your left, where you can get free water, tea, coffee and bananas, or order from their menu. Everything is reasonably priced, and of good quality. You can also purchase LARGE bottles of cold water if you like for seventy five cents. You also get free massage for thirty minutes if you like, and an additional 3/hr after that.
The staff, from my experience, are all very friendly and helpful. They do not push tours on you, so if you would like to arrange for one during your stay, you approach them. There is a computer room to the right of the desk that has multiple computers for use, all with web cam, head phones, and there is a printer for use as well, though I think that has a small fee.
Upon check in, you are shown to your room. My room is a small one bedroom with bath, no balcony. It does have a closet, a tv, and a refrigerator, and a bathroom with toilet, sink, and hot water shower. Add on air conditioning and fan option, and really its perfect. The bathroom is kind of fun as there is zero seperation between the sink, toilet, and shower, so make sure you have anything that could get damaged off the area before showering. It is a great space saver though, and something that I thought was rather crafty. They also provide toothbrush and paste, and a small cup waiting for you on the sink. There is also a small safe in the corner that I made use of. My bed feels amazing, and considering the price, I am quite happy. I've stayed at more expensive hotels in the States and have gotten less service and quality for my money, so I really recommend staying here. Plus, they set me up with a fantastic guide and driver, which really made my stay all the more enjoyable.
Each employee speaks a moderate level of English at the least, though I don't think anyone is fluent, not that that matters, as we are in Cambodia. The fact that they know any of my language is a huge plus for me and something I am thankful for.
The steps are slightly steep, but I think that is honestly the norm around here. Each level has a balcony terrace on the side if you wish to sit out there instead of downstairs in the entrance area. Whereas the entrance has a mixture of hammocks and chairs, there are only chairs for seating on the balconies.
The staff are very friendly from what I have experienced. Just earlier, in fact, a lady from the hotel surprised me with a cold towel, some tea, and peanuts, saying she noticed I had been sitting here for a while, so she brought me these to enjoy whilst I sit.
Later, I will certainly add a review to trip advisor and hostelworld for this place, but for the time being, I believe I am going to go upstairs, shower, and then go have some dinner.
The staff, from my experience, are all very friendly and helpful. They do not push tours on you, so if you would like to arrange for one during your stay, you approach them. There is a computer room to the right of the desk that has multiple computers for use, all with web cam, head phones, and there is a printer for use as well, though I think that has a small fee.
Upon check in, you are shown to your room. My room is a small one bedroom with bath, no balcony. It does have a closet, a tv, and a refrigerator, and a bathroom with toilet, sink, and hot water shower. Add on air conditioning and fan option, and really its perfect. The bathroom is kind of fun as there is zero seperation between the sink, toilet, and shower, so make sure you have anything that could get damaged off the area before showering. It is a great space saver though, and something that I thought was rather crafty. They also provide toothbrush and paste, and a small cup waiting for you on the sink. There is also a small safe in the corner that I made use of. My bed feels amazing, and considering the price, I am quite happy. I've stayed at more expensive hotels in the States and have gotten less service and quality for my money, so I really recommend staying here. Plus, they set me up with a fantastic guide and driver, which really made my stay all the more enjoyable.
Each employee speaks a moderate level of English at the least, though I don't think anyone is fluent, not that that matters, as we are in Cambodia. The fact that they know any of my language is a huge plus for me and something I am thankful for.
The steps are slightly steep, but I think that is honestly the norm around here. Each level has a balcony terrace on the side if you wish to sit out there instead of downstairs in the entrance area. Whereas the entrance has a mixture of hammocks and chairs, there are only chairs for seating on the balconies.
The staff are very friendly from what I have experienced. Just earlier, in fact, a lady from the hotel surprised me with a cold towel, some tea, and peanuts, saying she noticed I had been sitting here for a while, so she brought me these to enjoy whilst I sit.
Later, I will certainly add a review to trip advisor and hostelworld for this place, but for the time being, I believe I am going to go upstairs, shower, and then go have some dinner.
Final tuk tuk massage, Beng Mealea, and the Rolous Group.
Today is my last day in Cambodia, and I am personally very sad to leave.
We started early this morning at six am, heading out with Mr.Driver and Sothik to start our day at the temple of Beng Mealea, which was waaaayyy out in the country by way of tuk tuk. It took us a little while, but I enjoyed the ride and small talk with Sothik. For the first half it was chilly, and I found myself wishing that I had brought my hoodie. Sothik asked if I had had breakfast, and I told him that I ate my snack bar and such, and asked him if he had eaten, but apparently he had only had a small banana. He then brought up a traditional Cambodian breakfast, with pork or beef, and noodles, and I said I'd like to try that. Soon enough, we were pulled over at a stand and all of us were eating breakfast there at a local market. Sothik showed me how to eat it properly, cause I was poking at my noodles like the inexperienced chop stick person I am. I put some chili paste in there and ahhhh, it was so good. Really brought out the flavors, as well as made my lips burn a little (thats how you know its good.). The bowl was more than I could eat, but I was glad I got to try it. The bowl full of noodles, beef, and then iced tea was only .75. I was amazed at that. Something like that would cost at least $5 in the States.
While eating, Mr. Driver had to run off to purchase an e card for his phone. Apparently his children were sick and he needed to keep in contact. I did not get the chance to ask, but I hope that they are well. Perhaps I will ask tomorrow when he takes me to the airport. After having a nice breakfast with them, we got back in the tuk tuk and continued along. The trip was about 2 hours total, but again, I enjoyed myself. I liked seeing the different sights and talking with Sothik, especially since there was a breeze and it wasn't murderously hot. The every day way of life here is so different, with people riding on top of trucks piled with rice, or holding infants in arm while driving a motorcycle, but somehow they make it work. One thing I enjoyed seeing were the number of oxen and water buffaloes everywhere, something you just don't see in the States.
Beng Mealea
We got to Beng Mealea around 8:30 - 9 maybe, after a stop to purchase the extra $5 ticket and restroom break. This temple was fantastic to view. Firstly, maybe two other tourist there. Some locals were sitting outside the temple resting, while the children played amongst the ruins. On our way to the temple, Sothik got a call about his sister in law going into labor and heading to the hospital. She was only 8 months pregnant, so he called a friend at the children's hospital as well to try and check on things. As he waited to hear back from his family, we wandered around the temple taking photos, him telling me about the history.
Beng Mealea translates into "lotus pond", and is thus named for the giant lotus flowers that grow in the canal surrounding the temple. It was built as a Hindu temple, but has some Buddhist carvings as well. The temple is the most "ïn ruin"state of all the temples i've visited (and I think of them all) as a joint effort of robbery and the natural progression of the jungle. For years it was extremely difficult to reach, as roads were littered with land mines that had to be cleared, that process in and of itself being an extremely dangerous one. The history of this temple is largely unknown, and we only know a rough guess of the age due to the style of the temple being similar to Angkor Wat.
We followed the wooden path for so far, Sothik showing me various spots where I can climb around and explore on my own for a bit as well. Its amazing to see these temples in the first place, but at Beng Mealea it almost feels like you're discovering it for the first time yourself. The sheer size of the blocks is impressive in and of itself, and somehow with the building falling apart you can really appreciate the work that was put into it more.
The trees growing up and through the temple are amazing as well, and its odd to think that something that is lending to the destruction of the temple can also lend to the beauty. That being said, I was saddened to see at all of these sites various littering from tourists and locals alike. While crawling around Beng Mealea, one of the few sites where you can honestly do so, I came across water bottles or candy wrappers, and I just can't understand why you would want to litter in such a place as that. Although from what I had seen, tossing trash aside was not so uncommon in the area as I may have hoped. In the future, I imagine they won't allow you to climb the way you can in the temples. Some temples already have rules set up for preservation obviously ( do not touch the lions, do not touch the faces, do not write on the stone-) but there's a general lack of reinforcement at the sites. If someone was scaling the wall of one of the temples and was four feet in the air, I'm sure someone would shout at them, but so far at Beng Mealea, that does not exist. So Sothik and I climbed over fallen blocks, under doorways and over trees to explore the temple. I did my best to cause as little damage as possible, though its a bit difficult to do in a temple that is already more or less collapsed. That being said, the climbing was certainly a highlight.
Rolous Group
Leaving the temple, we passed several large buses of people showing up to tour the site. Sothik had succeeded again in excellent timing, helping me to avoid the masses of tourists. In the tuk tuk on the way to the Rolous Group, I gave him some pecans and we chatted about the scenery and food in general. Ahhh, food. We took a 'short cut' down a red dirt road, which I don't think was a short cut because Mr. Driver seemed lost in places, but I enjoyed it all the same. The trees and plants lining the path were heavily coated in red dust, completely changing the color of the plants. Sothik called them highlights, lol, and I suppose they were. Occasionally we'd hit a bump and get knocked around the tuk tuk, prompting Sothik to go, "ahhh, tuk tuk massage, yesss." Sothik definitely added to my trip, and I kept thinking how happy I was that he was my guide. We passed rice fields, sometimes with people in them working away, sometimes dotted with oxen or birds. Sometimes it was nothing but trees. Sothik pointed at the palm trees, calling them Cambodian Christmas trees, they decorate and then big party at night, lol. We went through several villages in the countryside, our 'short cut' giving me the opportunity to see some more of the farming life style. We stopped once for directions at a stand, where they had fish skewered on sticks and roasting up front. All the stands we have passed in general for the trip are speckled with fresh fruit of varying types, or scarves, hats, and bags depending on where the shop is set up. Along the way, Sothik got a call from his family. He chatted on the phone for a bit, smiling and laughing, and then after he hung up he happily exclaimed, "A boy!" So now he is an uncle! He seemed happy and excited for his sister in law and brother. Maybe this evening he'll get to go see them.
After another short stop for directions, we wandered out of the rice fields and onto a main road, merging with traffic once again as we exited close to the first temple.
The Rolous Group is made up of three temples, named individually as Lolei, Bakong, and Preah Ko, the group name being Rolous for the village/locals in the area.
Lolei
Lolei was the youngest of the three, built around 893 and was dedicated once again to the god Shiva. This temple was built for the kings ancestors, with towers for his mother, father, and his grand parents. The front two towers are for the males, where as the back two are for the females. The temple has many false doors, decorative elements, and is today located next to a monastery, where the monks live and keep the site holy. Photos of the site are easier to take from the back half, where the back two towers are not blocked by the ones in the front. The tops of the towers are covered in plants, most of which looked like cat tails to me.
Preah Ko
Preah Ko is the oldest of the three temples in the Rolous Group, and was made to honor the king's family, placed in relation to the god Shiva. Preah Ko is Khmer for Sacred Bull, as there are three sandstone bull carvings facing the temple in the front. These statues represent Nandi, the sacred white bull that Shiva uses as a mount.
Bakong
Bakong is the first temple mountain constructed by the rulers of the Khmer empire. It is separated by two moats, inside three concentric enclosures. Bakong has five levels, each suspected to have been coated in stucco and carved with a story. Today, only a small bit of the stucco survives. There elephants and lions on the corners of each level, in it its own state of disrepair, though still grand in their own rights. The temple is surrounded by old mango trees, none of which still bear fruit, though the shade they provide was very much welcomed. Here as well there is a monastery, as well as a prayer room for the monks with paintings dating back to its origin. You can visit inside the prayer rooms if you like. I did not however as I didn't want to be rude, taking photos of people praying and worshiping, as they were doing at the time.
We started early this morning at six am, heading out with Mr.Driver and Sothik to start our day at the temple of Beng Mealea, which was waaaayyy out in the country by way of tuk tuk. It took us a little while, but I enjoyed the ride and small talk with Sothik. For the first half it was chilly, and I found myself wishing that I had brought my hoodie. Sothik asked if I had had breakfast, and I told him that I ate my snack bar and such, and asked him if he had eaten, but apparently he had only had a small banana. He then brought up a traditional Cambodian breakfast, with pork or beef, and noodles, and I said I'd like to try that. Soon enough, we were pulled over at a stand and all of us were eating breakfast there at a local market. Sothik showed me how to eat it properly, cause I was poking at my noodles like the inexperienced chop stick person I am. I put some chili paste in there and ahhhh, it was so good. Really brought out the flavors, as well as made my lips burn a little (thats how you know its good.). The bowl was more than I could eat, but I was glad I got to try it. The bowl full of noodles, beef, and then iced tea was only .75. I was amazed at that. Something like that would cost at least $5 in the States.
While eating, Mr. Driver had to run off to purchase an e card for his phone. Apparently his children were sick and he needed to keep in contact. I did not get the chance to ask, but I hope that they are well. Perhaps I will ask tomorrow when he takes me to the airport. After having a nice breakfast with them, we got back in the tuk tuk and continued along. The trip was about 2 hours total, but again, I enjoyed myself. I liked seeing the different sights and talking with Sothik, especially since there was a breeze and it wasn't murderously hot. The every day way of life here is so different, with people riding on top of trucks piled with rice, or holding infants in arm while driving a motorcycle, but somehow they make it work. One thing I enjoyed seeing were the number of oxen and water buffaloes everywhere, something you just don't see in the States.
Beng Mealea
We got to Beng Mealea around 8:30 - 9 maybe, after a stop to purchase the extra $5 ticket and restroom break. This temple was fantastic to view. Firstly, maybe two other tourist there. Some locals were sitting outside the temple resting, while the children played amongst the ruins. On our way to the temple, Sothik got a call about his sister in law going into labor and heading to the hospital. She was only 8 months pregnant, so he called a friend at the children's hospital as well to try and check on things. As he waited to hear back from his family, we wandered around the temple taking photos, him telling me about the history.
Beng Mealea translates into "lotus pond", and is thus named for the giant lotus flowers that grow in the canal surrounding the temple. It was built as a Hindu temple, but has some Buddhist carvings as well. The temple is the most "ïn ruin"state of all the temples i've visited (and I think of them all) as a joint effort of robbery and the natural progression of the jungle. For years it was extremely difficult to reach, as roads were littered with land mines that had to be cleared, that process in and of itself being an extremely dangerous one. The history of this temple is largely unknown, and we only know a rough guess of the age due to the style of the temple being similar to Angkor Wat.
We followed the wooden path for so far, Sothik showing me various spots where I can climb around and explore on my own for a bit as well. Its amazing to see these temples in the first place, but at Beng Mealea it almost feels like you're discovering it for the first time yourself. The sheer size of the blocks is impressive in and of itself, and somehow with the building falling apart you can really appreciate the work that was put into it more.
The trees growing up and through the temple are amazing as well, and its odd to think that something that is lending to the destruction of the temple can also lend to the beauty. That being said, I was saddened to see at all of these sites various littering from tourists and locals alike. While crawling around Beng Mealea, one of the few sites where you can honestly do so, I came across water bottles or candy wrappers, and I just can't understand why you would want to litter in such a place as that. Although from what I had seen, tossing trash aside was not so uncommon in the area as I may have hoped. In the future, I imagine they won't allow you to climb the way you can in the temples. Some temples already have rules set up for preservation obviously ( do not touch the lions, do not touch the faces, do not write on the stone-) but there's a general lack of reinforcement at the sites. If someone was scaling the wall of one of the temples and was four feet in the air, I'm sure someone would shout at them, but so far at Beng Mealea, that does not exist. So Sothik and I climbed over fallen blocks, under doorways and over trees to explore the temple. I did my best to cause as little damage as possible, though its a bit difficult to do in a temple that is already more or less collapsed. That being said, the climbing was certainly a highlight.
Rolous Group
Leaving the temple, we passed several large buses of people showing up to tour the site. Sothik had succeeded again in excellent timing, helping me to avoid the masses of tourists. In the tuk tuk on the way to the Rolous Group, I gave him some pecans and we chatted about the scenery and food in general. Ahhh, food. We took a 'short cut' down a red dirt road, which I don't think was a short cut because Mr. Driver seemed lost in places, but I enjoyed it all the same. The trees and plants lining the path were heavily coated in red dust, completely changing the color of the plants. Sothik called them highlights, lol, and I suppose they were. Occasionally we'd hit a bump and get knocked around the tuk tuk, prompting Sothik to go, "ahhh, tuk tuk massage, yesss." Sothik definitely added to my trip, and I kept thinking how happy I was that he was my guide. We passed rice fields, sometimes with people in them working away, sometimes dotted with oxen or birds. Sometimes it was nothing but trees. Sothik pointed at the palm trees, calling them Cambodian Christmas trees, they decorate and then big party at night, lol. We went through several villages in the countryside, our 'short cut' giving me the opportunity to see some more of the farming life style. We stopped once for directions at a stand, where they had fish skewered on sticks and roasting up front. All the stands we have passed in general for the trip are speckled with fresh fruit of varying types, or scarves, hats, and bags depending on where the shop is set up. Along the way, Sothik got a call from his family. He chatted on the phone for a bit, smiling and laughing, and then after he hung up he happily exclaimed, "A boy!" So now he is an uncle! He seemed happy and excited for his sister in law and brother. Maybe this evening he'll get to go see them.
After another short stop for directions, we wandered out of the rice fields and onto a main road, merging with traffic once again as we exited close to the first temple.
The Rolous Group is made up of three temples, named individually as Lolei, Bakong, and Preah Ko, the group name being Rolous for the village/locals in the area.
Lolei
Lolei was the youngest of the three, built around 893 and was dedicated once again to the god Shiva. This temple was built for the kings ancestors, with towers for his mother, father, and his grand parents. The front two towers are for the males, where as the back two are for the females. The temple has many false doors, decorative elements, and is today located next to a monastery, where the monks live and keep the site holy. Photos of the site are easier to take from the back half, where the back two towers are not blocked by the ones in the front. The tops of the towers are covered in plants, most of which looked like cat tails to me.
Preah Ko
Preah Ko is the oldest of the three temples in the Rolous Group, and was made to honor the king's family, placed in relation to the god Shiva. Preah Ko is Khmer for Sacred Bull, as there are three sandstone bull carvings facing the temple in the front. These statues represent Nandi, the sacred white bull that Shiva uses as a mount.
Bakong
Bakong is the first temple mountain constructed by the rulers of the Khmer empire. It is separated by two moats, inside three concentric enclosures. Bakong has five levels, each suspected to have been coated in stucco and carved with a story. Today, only a small bit of the stucco survives. There elephants and lions on the corners of each level, in it its own state of disrepair, though still grand in their own rights. The temple is surrounded by old mango trees, none of which still bear fruit, though the shade they provide was very much welcomed. Here as well there is a monastery, as well as a prayer room for the monks with paintings dating back to its origin. You can visit inside the prayer rooms if you like. I did not however as I didn't want to be rude, taking photos of people praying and worshiping, as they were doing at the time.
Breakfast, Angkor Wat, and lunch
So I mostly told about Angkor Thom in the first post, so I figured I would finish off about Angkor Wat in here.
As described earlier, we saw the sunrise at the temple and then wandered around the outer complex before leaving for other temples. When we left, there were TONS of tourists, to the point that I was incredibly thankful that we took the side route out.
We had breakfast the first day at a place just outside the temple (Angkor Wat) it seemed, and while I debated on ordering food or not, I caved and got a glorious pancake with bananas and honey. The pancake was sweet tasting, and reminded me of corn bread honestly. It was very very good. I also got a wonderful iced coffee that just made my day. The coffee here tastes different as well, but in no way bad.
This was my first encounter with their sweet milk, which was interesting. Its a lot thicker than milk or creamer, and frankly i'm not sure what is in it, but it is very good, and I couldn't imagine putting sugar in on top of all that.
When we returned to Angkor Wat, it was more or less 'émpty' as far as the temple goes. The giant mass of tourists were all having lunch and a break, as most guide books suggest giving tourists a time to rest around then. Sothik took advantage of that and I was thankful he did. We entered from a side gate again, taking photos of some of the far lying buildings before walking around. We came up a side road that we had passed earlier that day with the monkeys, and I stopped and filmed/watched some of them for a while before we wandered on.
Sothik told me a funny story about how when he was younger, he used to be afraid of the monkeys. Well one time, he was standing with a friend watching them in a tree when one of them suddenly jumped down from the tree, straight at him, so he freaked, covered his face, and just punched out, completely cold cocking the monkey in the face, lol. He didn't mean to, but it was a KO, flawless victory, and the monkey ran off to harass someone else. That's one way to over come your fear. We joked about a monkey that was all sprawled out in the middle of the road, saying that was the one from before and it had simply never recovered.
We came upon Angkor Wat from the back side, taking photos and basically ruling over the kingdom as there wasn't another tourist in site.
Entering from the back, he showed me the carvings and told me the stories behind each one, several themes that I would see in many of the temples later through my visit. He took me through passages that were off the 'way of visit' to get to specific areas, and with his eye for photography, showed me some great places for shots, all while telling me the history of the temple.
In some cases, we walked along the outer ledges of the temple to get to spots, or sometimes just shade, whatever held the highest value at the moment.
We talked a little about his history, and it caught me off guard a little bit. When he was younger, he studied with the monks of Angkor Wat for a few years, (which is also where he learned English), because of the war in Cambodia. In the war, his mother had already lost 11 children, and she was worried if he went into town that they would be split up and lost from each other, and she didn't want that to happen again. So he lived with the monks for a while, learning English and other things, before leaving that life style. He practiced his English in hotels for a few years, and then doing tours. Apparently he met Angelina Jolie when she was filming out here, serving her food and water at her hotel. What caught me off guard though was that people living now were still directly effected by the war. I had read briefly about it while doing some research on Cambodia, but I guess I never thought that some people today were people who had lived through that time period. Sothik isn't that much older than me either, he's only ...what? 31? 32? We also passed musicians playing outside the temple who were victims of land mines, all missing arms, or legs, or blinded. It was a shocking reminder how different our lives can be.
It isn't all bad memories though, of course. When asked, Sothik told me his favorite temple was the Angkor Wat, as he grew up with it always in view, even at his mothers house as a child. They would go out, pick wild mushrooms, fruits, and go swimming in the moat, all with the temple in the background. That sounds pretty lovely to me, and I was glad he had moments like those as well. He seems a really kind, fun loving individual, and I keep finding myself happy that he's the guide I ended up with.
He was very open about all of this, and at first I wondered if I should include it or not, but I decided to in the end because Cambodia is not just about the temples. Cambodia is its people, and their history. Should I hear that he does not wish for this to be told, I will gladly remove it from my post.
The Angkor Wat temple turned out to be everything I dreamed of and more. It was amazing seeing the sun rise, how the sky went from speckled with stars to the slow shift of blue into oranges and pinks. It was incredible to look at the size and complexity of the building and think about the fact that we're not building anything of this grandeur in today's day and age, with all of our machines and know how. The carvings were all intricate, beautiful artistry, all bold and yet delicate at the same time.
The women carved into the temple were individuals, each with different outfits, poses, and hair styles.
We even found "the most beautiful woman" amongst them, her mouth actually open and exposing teeth.
I loved it. I loved it all, and I'm so happy I decided to come here.
Lunch was at another stop along the road, though this place was the 'fanciest' we've been to so far. I got chicken stir fry with peppers and greens, with rice and egg on the side. Another iced coffee, helloooo, all for about six dollars. With both breakfast and lunch, I ate by myself, as Sothik and Mr. Driver ate either together or with other guides. It was both lonely and relaxing at the same time. Lonely not because I dislike eating alone, but mainly because it would have been fun to talk to someone about the things I'd seen, but relaxing because I honestly don't know that I could have carried a conversation with anyone I didn't know well at that point, so it was nice to not have to worry about small talk and to just be able to relax. I watched some of the other tourist, as well as this giant skink that was parading back and forth at the entrance way.
Over all, this temple lived up to everything I expected and more, and I know I wouldn't of had as good a visit if it weren't for Sothik and his knowledge of the temple/times to visit.
All other photos shall be posted on Facebook.
As described earlier, we saw the sunrise at the temple and then wandered around the outer complex before leaving for other temples. When we left, there were TONS of tourists, to the point that I was incredibly thankful that we took the side route out.
We had breakfast the first day at a place just outside the temple (Angkor Wat) it seemed, and while I debated on ordering food or not, I caved and got a glorious pancake with bananas and honey. The pancake was sweet tasting, and reminded me of corn bread honestly. It was very very good. I also got a wonderful iced coffee that just made my day. The coffee here tastes different as well, but in no way bad.
This was my first encounter with their sweet milk, which was interesting. Its a lot thicker than milk or creamer, and frankly i'm not sure what is in it, but it is very good, and I couldn't imagine putting sugar in on top of all that.
When we returned to Angkor Wat, it was more or less 'émpty' as far as the temple goes. The giant mass of tourists were all having lunch and a break, as most guide books suggest giving tourists a time to rest around then. Sothik took advantage of that and I was thankful he did. We entered from a side gate again, taking photos of some of the far lying buildings before walking around. We came up a side road that we had passed earlier that day with the monkeys, and I stopped and filmed/watched some of them for a while before we wandered on.
Sothik told me a funny story about how when he was younger, he used to be afraid of the monkeys. Well one time, he was standing with a friend watching them in a tree when one of them suddenly jumped down from the tree, straight at him, so he freaked, covered his face, and just punched out, completely cold cocking the monkey in the face, lol. He didn't mean to, but it was a KO, flawless victory, and the monkey ran off to harass someone else. That's one way to over come your fear. We joked about a monkey that was all sprawled out in the middle of the road, saying that was the one from before and it had simply never recovered.
We came upon Angkor Wat from the back side, taking photos and basically ruling over the kingdom as there wasn't another tourist in site.
Entering from the back, he showed me the carvings and told me the stories behind each one, several themes that I would see in many of the temples later through my visit. He took me through passages that were off the 'way of visit' to get to specific areas, and with his eye for photography, showed me some great places for shots, all while telling me the history of the temple.
In some cases, we walked along the outer ledges of the temple to get to spots, or sometimes just shade, whatever held the highest value at the moment.We talked a little about his history, and it caught me off guard a little bit. When he was younger, he studied with the monks of Angkor Wat for a few years, (which is also where he learned English), because of the war in Cambodia. In the war, his mother had already lost 11 children, and she was worried if he went into town that they would be split up and lost from each other, and she didn't want that to happen again. So he lived with the monks for a while, learning English and other things, before leaving that life style. He practiced his English in hotels for a few years, and then doing tours. Apparently he met Angelina Jolie when she was filming out here, serving her food and water at her hotel. What caught me off guard though was that people living now were still directly effected by the war. I had read briefly about it while doing some research on Cambodia, but I guess I never thought that some people today were people who had lived through that time period. Sothik isn't that much older than me either, he's only ...what? 31? 32? We also passed musicians playing outside the temple who were victims of land mines, all missing arms, or legs, or blinded. It was a shocking reminder how different our lives can be.
It isn't all bad memories though, of course. When asked, Sothik told me his favorite temple was the Angkor Wat, as he grew up with it always in view, even at his mothers house as a child. They would go out, pick wild mushrooms, fruits, and go swimming in the moat, all with the temple in the background. That sounds pretty lovely to me, and I was glad he had moments like those as well. He seems a really kind, fun loving individual, and I keep finding myself happy that he's the guide I ended up with.
He was very open about all of this, and at first I wondered if I should include it or not, but I decided to in the end because Cambodia is not just about the temples. Cambodia is its people, and their history. Should I hear that he does not wish for this to be told, I will gladly remove it from my post.
The Angkor Wat temple turned out to be everything I dreamed of and more. It was amazing seeing the sun rise, how the sky went from speckled with stars to the slow shift of blue into oranges and pinks. It was incredible to look at the size and complexity of the building and think about the fact that we're not building anything of this grandeur in today's day and age, with all of our machines and know how. The carvings were all intricate, beautiful artistry, all bold and yet delicate at the same time.
The women carved into the temple were individuals, each with different outfits, poses, and hair styles.
We even found "the most beautiful woman" amongst them, her mouth actually open and exposing teeth.
I loved it. I loved it all, and I'm so happy I decided to come here.
Lunch was at another stop along the road, though this place was the 'fanciest' we've been to so far. I got chicken stir fry with peppers and greens, with rice and egg on the side. Another iced coffee, helloooo, all for about six dollars. With both breakfast and lunch, I ate by myself, as Sothik and Mr. Driver ate either together or with other guides. It was both lonely and relaxing at the same time. Lonely not because I dislike eating alone, but mainly because it would have been fun to talk to someone about the things I'd seen, but relaxing because I honestly don't know that I could have carried a conversation with anyone I didn't know well at that point, so it was nice to not have to worry about small talk and to just be able to relax. I watched some of the other tourist, as well as this giant skink that was parading back and forth at the entrance way.
Over all, this temple lived up to everything I expected and more, and I know I wouldn't of had as good a visit if it weren't for Sothik and his knowledge of the temple/times to visit.
All other photos shall be posted on Facebook.
December 7th's schedule
THIRD DAY: In the morning go to Beng Melea and on the return visit the Roluos Group.
Pre Rup, and not falling down stairs.
Our last stop for today was Pre Rup. Originally the tour called for a few other temples but since we took the tuk tuk tour through the country, time did not allowed for it. Honestly, I was fine with that. I think trying to cram all those temples into one day would've been exhausting. Hell, doing the two we did was exhausting.
We had passed Pre Rup on our way out to Kbal Spean, and I had intelligently noted, "That looks like brick."
"That would be because it is brick," said my guide, so hey, score one for observation? While I say brick, and he says brick, I do not think we are thinking of the same thing. Or maybe we are? I have no real idea how bricks are made so I have nothing to really get into scientifically, nor do I really care to honestly.
The temple is HUGE, and apparently the oldest one out of all the temples in the area. It is a temple mountain of combined brick, laterite, and sandstone.
Originally it was covered in stucco, hiding the brick and sandstone from view, but over time that has mostly disappeared, exposing the bright red and black sandstone to the world. The temple is believed to have been used as a crematorium, basically, with the rather modern name meaning to "turn the body," a name reflecting the common belief that this was a burial spot, with the ashes being ritually rotated in different directions as the process progressed. This temple is another one dedicated to Shiva. The giant natural staircases are flanked by lions, all in varying states of condition. Some are nothing but holes at this point, whereas some are mostly complete. A couple lie in ruins just beneath the base. From the top most base, you can spot one of the spires of Angkor Wat, which was pretty impressive to see.
The red sandstone was a brilliant contrast to the bright blue sky, and made for amazing pictures. Inside several of the temple areas, the enormity of what they built can really be seen. I will be sure to update with photos as soon as possible.
After all the climbing and hiking, my legs had gotten slightly sore, so wandering up and down the stairs was something best done slowly, without a doubt. I find the sides of the stairways to be easiest to climb, as in most cases you have a ledge to place your hand against. I've passed several tourist these past two days who look at an area, for example the top most complex of Angkor Wat, and go, "How high up is that? And thats the only way up? Welp, won't be seeing that, thank you very much," which is very understandable.
Sothik was telling me on the hike that certain areas he can't take his guests depending on their age/condition, or how hes had quite a few times where people thought they could go up, and then they'd either get half way up or would be coming down and would just freeze, so he'd end up spending a good amount of time safely walking them back down. The stairs are without a doubt steep, and in some cases there's no room for your full foot, even turned sideways. Thank you Inca Trail for preparing me for that pleasure. As for me, I figure I didn't fly all the way from the US to look up at the places I'd like to see.
The danger is very real though. Just two days before visiting Angkor Wat, Sothik told me a Chinese tourist fell from a ledge, cracked his head and broke his arm. At one of the other temples we visited, a Japanese lady fell to her death. So there is no fooling around on the staircases, and if you suffer from vertigo or unsteady footing, do not attempt to climb up some of these. Know your limits, because a picture isn't worth the fall.
We had passed Pre Rup on our way out to Kbal Spean, and I had intelligently noted, "That looks like brick."
The temple is HUGE, and apparently the oldest one out of all the temples in the area. It is a temple mountain of combined brick, laterite, and sandstone.
Originally it was covered in stucco, hiding the brick and sandstone from view, but over time that has mostly disappeared, exposing the bright red and black sandstone to the world. The temple is believed to have been used as a crematorium, basically, with the rather modern name meaning to "turn the body," a name reflecting the common belief that this was a burial spot, with the ashes being ritually rotated in different directions as the process progressed. This temple is another one dedicated to Shiva. The giant natural staircases are flanked by lions, all in varying states of condition. Some are nothing but holes at this point, whereas some are mostly complete. A couple lie in ruins just beneath the base. From the top most base, you can spot one of the spires of Angkor Wat, which was pretty impressive to see.
The red sandstone was a brilliant contrast to the bright blue sky, and made for amazing pictures. Inside several of the temple areas, the enormity of what they built can really be seen. I will be sure to update with photos as soon as possible.
After all the climbing and hiking, my legs had gotten slightly sore, so wandering up and down the stairs was something best done slowly, without a doubt. I find the sides of the stairways to be easiest to climb, as in most cases you have a ledge to place your hand against. I've passed several tourist these past two days who look at an area, for example the top most complex of Angkor Wat, and go, "How high up is that? And thats the only way up? Welp, won't be seeing that, thank you very much," which is very understandable.
Sothik was telling me on the hike that certain areas he can't take his guests depending on their age/condition, or how hes had quite a few times where people thought they could go up, and then they'd either get half way up or would be coming down and would just freeze, so he'd end up spending a good amount of time safely walking them back down. The stairs are without a doubt steep, and in some cases there's no room for your full foot, even turned sideways. Thank you Inca Trail for preparing me for that pleasure. As for me, I figure I didn't fly all the way from the US to look up at the places I'd like to see.
The danger is very real though. Just two days before visiting Angkor Wat, Sothik told me a Chinese tourist fell from a ledge, cracked his head and broke his arm. At one of the other temples we visited, a Japanese lady fell to her death. So there is no fooling around on the staircases, and if you suffer from vertigo or unsteady footing, do not attempt to climb up some of these. Know your limits, because a picture isn't worth the fall.
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